Kamakura: Tokeiji Temple (東慶寺) with Peaceful Hydrangeas

Last week, I took my mother to Kamakura to enjoy the hydrangeas. We visited three temples: Meigetsuin, Hasedera, and Tokeiji, all of which are popularly known as “Ajisai-dera” (Hyrangea Temples)

It had been raining until the day before, so I was worried about the weather. However, it turned out to be a bright, sunny day—though unfortunately, the temperature was nearly 30°C! Our first stop was Tokeiji Temple (東慶寺), a historic nunnery. It’s conveniently located near Kita-Kamakura Station, just one stop from Kamakura Station.

While I was busy taking photos, my mother went ahead of me.

Tokeiji Temple is sometimes referred to as “Kakekomi-dera” (Refuge Temple) or “Enkiri-dera” (Divorce Temple). Historically, it served as a sanctuary for women seeking refuge from abusive husbands and was one of the few places in the Edo period where women could initiate divorce—a right otherwise unavailable to them.

My mother was so eager to explore that she paid the 200 yen admission fee and entered the temple while I was still behind with my camera. As a result, many of my photos feature the back of her head!

Although Tokeiji is a small and modest temple, the vibrant hydrangeas add a splash of color and beauty to its grounds. They were truly stunning.

Worship hall.

Compared to Meigetsuin and Hasedera, which are the most famous hydrangea temples, Tokeiji was much quieter and more peaceful. The serene atmosphere was a welcome change.