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Yunokawa Onsen: Stay & Seafood Breakfast Buffet at Hakodate Umi to Akari (函館湯の川温泉 海と灯)

Hokkaido

For this trip to Hakodate, since my arrival was rather late, I decided to stay the first night at Yunokawa Onsen. My criteria for choosing accommodation were: having an open-air bath, offering a breakfast buffet with plenty of seafood, and the option to stay without dinner. This hotel met all those conditions—Hakodate Yunokawa Onsen Umi to Akari (函館湯の川温泉 海と灯). Since it was the off-season, I managed to stay for just over 10,000 yen, but due to inbound tourism, the current standard price with breakfast is around 20,000 yen.

This hotel, which opened in 2021, is very clean. With 221 guest rooms, it is a large-scale hot spring inn. The entrance has a Japanese-style design, creating a calm atmosphere. They also provide welcome drinks such as fruit-infused water and haskap juice.

The lobby also has a tranquil ambiance.

I stayed alone in a Standard Double Room. This room type accommodates 1–2 guests, and at 14 square meters, it provides enough space for two people without feeling cramped. Even though I was staying alone, there were two sets of room wear provided.

The blue panel adds a refreshing touch. By the way, this hotel has a no-shoes policy indoors, meaning guests take off their shoes upon entry.

I was happy to find that they provide a basket bag for carrying items to the bath!

The room was equipped with essentials such as a kettle, glasses, cups, a refrigerator, a security box, and a TV.

Although it’s a hot spring hotel, each room comes with a bathtub. However, the water is not from the hot spring. The amenities included a toothbrush, shower cap, comb, and other necessities.

The window view was pastoral, and I could see Samekawa River (part of the Matsukura River system). The atmosphere was serene and relaxing.

During my stay, I happened to receive some local grilled dango from “Gingetsu (銀月)” a popular shop in the area. Was it a welcome dango? Either way, it was deliciously chewy!

大浴場があるのは最上階の12階。男女とも大浴場は畳風呂になっています。中は撮影不可なので写真はありませんので、ホテル公式HPで確認してください。写真のまんまです。つねに混んでいる大浴場だったんですけど、私は夕食をつけていなかったので、その時間に大浴場に行ったらほぼ貸切でした。

The large public bath is located on the top floor, the 12th floor. Both the men’s and women’s baths feature tatami flooring. Since photography is not allowed inside, please check the official hotel website for images—it looks exactly as pictured. The baths were consistently crowded, but since I did not have dinner included in my plan, I visited during dinnertime and had the bath almost to myself.

The outdoor bath is designed as an infinity bath, seamlessly blending with the ocean view. However, the wind was quite strong, and any towels left nearby would be blown away. There are also two private baths available for about 3000 yen each.

On this floor, there is also a relaxation area where you can unwind while admiring Hakodate’s nightscape.

They offer milk in glass bottles, sake, and draft beer, perfect for a post-bath refreshment. I don’t remember the exact prices, but I think beer was around 700 yen. Enjoying a cold beer while gazing at the night view—pure bliss!

Both breakfast and dinner are served in the restaurant on the second floor. The breakfast session was quite crowded, and I had to wait a bit before entering.

Breakfast tickets are handed over at the entrance. The dining area is relatively simple but spacious, with staff assigning seats to guests.

Naturally, my first stop was the seafood section! I accidentally captured a rather random part of the buffet in my photos, sorry about that.

Although the ikura was on the smaller side, they had plenty of sweet shrimp, scallops, crab miso, and more. Many guests made their own seafood bowls.

The Western food section featured omelets, quiche, Napolitan pasta, and even fried chicken! There was also a burger station where you could assemble your own hamburger.

The salad bar had a decent variety of fresh greens and toppings.

Because the place was so crowded, it was tough to take decent photos of the buffet area.

Despite the unlimited seafood and meat options, Yakult was limited to one per person! Precious Yakult!

The dessert section was also impressive, with items like pudding served in small glass jars.

The coffee station had multiple machines, including one outside. The coffee was, of course,              Misuzu Coffee.

And then… 🍷 Red, white, and sparkling wine were also unlimited! Morning drinking—yes, please!

So, in my rather chaotic attempt to plate my food, I kicked off my breakfast with sparkling wine. I had planned to eat a lot, but honestly, I couldn’t eat as much seafood as I expected in the morning. After a few small refills, I was full. But everything was delicious!

I later went back for some prosciutto and cheese, fully embracing the morning drinking experience. Olives and wine—this hotel knows exactly what they’re doing.

The desserts were fantastic too—the donuts and pudding were particularly good. The sheer variety of food was overwhelming. To try everything, I’d probably need at least a three-night stay…

I heard that the dinner buffet is even more luxurious, but having two buffets in a row would be too much for me. Before leaving, I grabbed a cup of coffee from the dispenser near the exit and enjoyed it in my room.

This was a wonderful hotel, and I’d love to visit again when I find a good deal!

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Name Hakodate Yunokawa Onsen Umi to Akari (函館湯の川温泉 海と灯)
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